JUNE.

In the June vegetable garden keep plants growing strongly with fortnightly applications of liquid fertiliser.
Keep beds weeded to avoid competition for nutrients and sunlight.
Plant seedlings of Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Spinach, Onions and Silverbeet.

Asparagus:
Now is the time to plant asparagus and rhubarb crowns and as these are both perennial crops good soil preparation is vital for success.

Asparagus grows best where the soil becomes quite cold in winter. Soil should be well drained and fertile with a pH at 6.0 or above. It should be started with an abundance of organic matter such as animal manure, compost or a green manure crop and the addition of blood and bone. If your soil is strongly acidic add a handful of dolomite to the square metre.
The crowns should be set in furrows 150 mm deep and in rows a metre apart. Cover the crowns to a depth of 25 mm and gradually work the soil into the furrow as the plants increase in size. During summer control weeds to permit the plants to make vigorous growth.
Asparagus should not be cut for two years, to give the plants time to build up large crowns. During the third season the asparagus may be cut for a month, and in future years this may be extended to two months. For the remainder of the summer the plants must be allowed to grow and store food for next year. Fertilise the planting near the end of the cutting season and keep well mulched over summer. The fernlike growth begins to yellow as winter approaches, cut this back to the ground and top dress with manure or straw. A well prepared planting can last for 10-15 years.

Rhubarb:
Rhubarb is grown for its large, thick, leaf stalks, out of favour for a while it is now popular again for dessert cakes and cobblers. The leaves are poisonous and should not be eaten. Rhubarb is ready to eat at least a month before strawberries ripen.
It thrives in fertile loams and clay loams and prefers them to light sandy soils, cold winters promote red colour. Organic matter such as rotted manure, compost, leaf mould and decayed mulch should be incorporated into the soil before planting, as rhubarb is a heavy feeder. Mulch well during summer to retain moisture.
The stalks should be pulled out of the crown, not cut off; they should not be pulled at all the first year, and only sparingly the second year. Well fertilised, heavily mulched plants will produce good crops indefinitely. It is best to remove the flower stalks and not let them produce seeds, as seed production saps the energy of the plant. Propagation is by division of the root. Each division planted should contain a bud and a piece of root.

The Ornamental Garden:
In the ornamental garden plant seedlings of pansy, viola, primula, foxglove.
Trim old hellebore leaves to promote new growth and expose flowers.
Keep bulbs growing strongly with a fortnightly dose of liquid manure.
Control weeds which have sprung up with renewed vigour since the rain.
Plant newly purchased roses; this should be done as soon as possible to prevent drying out.  Place plants in a bucket of water as soon as you unwrap them, soak overnight if possible.
Dig the planting hole wide enough to take the spread roots and deep enough that the graft will end up a little above soil level. Trim any broken roots with sharp secateurs. Make a mound of soil in the bottom of your planting hole and carefully spread the roots over this.
Hold the plant to ensure it is at the correct level and fill the hole about halfway, water in well and fill hole with soil.
Do not fertilise when planting.
If you are unable to plant your roses when they arrive, it is possible to heel them in.  Dig a shallow trench, lay the plants on their side, cover the roots and water. Plan to plant them by early August.
Established roses do not need to be pruned  until early in July in frost prone areas to prevent damage to emerging shoots.
 
Deciduous trees and shrubs have now lost their leaves it is an excellent time to look at the “bones” of your garden and make changes.
 Do not be afraid to be ruthless with those plants which have not performed well, there are many beautiful plants and cultivars available now for a wide range of situations.

Consider hedges for creating a garden room, screening an unsightly view or defining an area. Tall hedging plants like Pittosporum Silver Sheen or Photinia Robusta make wonderful dense screens.
To define garden edges English Box (Buxus sempervirens) is tough, attractive and long lasting.

Bare rooted trees are in the nursery now. If you are planning and orchard or just a few trees there are a few things to remember.
Frost pockets are not good locations for growing fruit; late frosts at blossom time can prevent the development of fruit.
Good air circulation will enhance rapid drying of fruit and foliage thus reducing the damage from fungous diseases.
Full sun is essential from morning to night.
Plant well away from large trees which compete for nutrients and moisture.
Do not plant a new tree where an old tree of the same type has been growing.
Soil should be well drained, fertile and deep. Fruit trees will not thrive where drainage is poor.
Organic matter such as well rotted animal manure and compost can be used.
Fertiliser should not be used until the trees are growing well.

When planting ornamental trees the same basic principles apply, deep, fertile soil which is well drained, make sure the hole is large enough for the root system, and of course keep all trees well mulched in Summer.
If you are planting a grove of Silver Birch and you want to achieve a natural effect try the trick practised by that doyenne of garden designers Edna Walling. Take a small bag of potatoes and throw them in the area in which you want to plant. Plant a tree where each potato falls, the effect will be much more natural than digging random holes.

Enjoy the rain, the sun and the renewed sense of optimism.

Happy Gardening

 
Marg, Lloyd and the team.

©2007 Meredith Wholesale Nursery PO Box 33 Meredith 3333 Victoria Ph 03 52861397

Fax 03 52861280