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Welcome to the July newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it...please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.
JULY.
In the July vegetable patch growth is slower as we approach mid winter, however continue to use liquid fertiliser at fortnightly intervals to encourage as much growth as possible. Plant seedlings in the sunniest areas of your vegie patch.
If you live in a frost free area sow peas now for a spring crop.
Now is the time to plant certified seed potatoes. Mulch with pea straw as they begin to shoot and continue as they grow and you will be able to place your hand under the mulch and harvest your potatoes. If you don’t wish to do this be sure to draw soil around the plants as they grow to prevent greening of the potato tubers.
In frosty areas cover at night to prevent frost damage.
Spread compost and manure over bare soil and dig in before planting seedlings. Spinach is a great winter vegetable as it grows best in cold weather.
Dig in green manure crops with some blood and bone added to speed up the decomposition process.
Continue to plant Asparagus, rhubarb and strawberry crowns.
Plant seedlings of herbs to ensure a fresh supply for spring.
Now is the time to establish or extend the home orchard. Bare root fruit and nut trees will be off to a great start if planted now.
For the urban gardener space limitations can be overcome by a judicious choice of what trees to grow.
It is possible to obtain trees grafted onto dwarfing rootstock for small compact trees which can be grown in pots if necessary, or multigrafted or family trees where several different varieties are grafted onto a single rootstock.
This solves not only the problem of space but also ensures compatible pollinators.
An espalier consists of a main trunk with branches in pairs trained at right angles to the trunk, it can be trained against a wall or fence and is suitable for courtyards and driveways or anywhere space is limited.
Urban gardens often provide excellent micro climates for growing fruit. Surrounding buildings provide protection against strong winds, absorb warmth and release it at night and are relatively frost free.
For those who have the room to plan a larger orchard, choose a sunny location, which is sheltered from strong winds and which does not become waterlogged in winter. Avoid frost pockets.
While a deep well drained loam is ideal for growing fruit trees, both clay and sandy soils can grow good fruit. Improve the humus quality of the soil with manure, pea straw, grass clippings and compost. Mulching well retains moisture.
Dig the planting hole in advance. It should be large enough to take the spread roots of the tree with a little room to spare and should be about 40cm deep.
Dig out the hole completely, loosen the soil at the base and spread a shallow layer of well rotted manure or compost. Mix in with the soil at the base to form a slight mound and place the roots of the young tree on this.
Examine the roots and prune away any that are damaged. Take out the tree again and insert a stake into the hole ramming it in securely so that it is vertical and is just above the height of the main branches.
Place the tree in position again and begin filling in the soil to cover the roots. Shake the tree to settle the soil around the roots. When the roots are completely covered, firm the soil with the foot and fill the hole.
Make sure the soil level, determined by the mark on the stem, is the same as it has been at the nursery. Fix the tree to the stake carefully and water thoroughly.
Be sure to protect the young tree from rabbits and other animals.
The tree should be secure and not rocking in the wind as this will break the young root hairs, stunting the growth of the tree.
In the established orchard at the end of July use copper spray such as Bordeaux on peach and nectarine trees to prevent leaf curl.
Fertilise all fruit trees with Dynamic Lifter and blood and bone.
Prune grapevines back to 3-4 buds from the trunk.
In the ornamental garden plant seedlings of pansy, primula, poppy, snapdragon, (Antirrhinum). Hardy plants such as Rosemary are in bloom now, looking quite striking against the yellows and creams of the early jonquils.
Take note of what is blooming in your garden at the moment and plan ahead for next year, winter need not be dull in the garden.
Many of our native plants are blooming now, Astartea “Winter Pink” which has delicate pink flowers, blue Damperia, Brachysema celsianum, the swan river pea, fast growing and hardy with scarlet flowers, Banksia spinulosa, Anigozanthos, (kangaroo paw) and many of the grevilleas, acacias and correas.
The native honeyeaters which these plants bring to the garden will bring colour and life to the winter garden.
Rose pruning should now be well underway and if you are a novice don’t worry, these beautiful plants are tough and forgiving.
Pruning hybrid tea and floribunda roses
Cut away any twiggy stems above the graft and around the base of the plant.
Prune out any weak or dead branches and cut remaining branches back about one third.
Among these roses Just Joey, with rich apricot orange blooms, Papa Meilland, which has elegant pointed dark crimson buds and is truly a classic rose, Hot Chocolate, a cluster flowered floribunda which progresses from a deep orange to a soft brown as it ages and Champagner are always popular.
Among the newer roses we have Red Pierre de Ronsard, with beautiful cupped old world flowers and the very popular Seduction and Pink Iceberg.
Miniature roses should have any dead branches removed and they should then be clipped back to 50-75mm .
Groundcover roses should be pruned quite severely, reduce all the summer growth back to a few short stems.
The Kordes rose Heidesommer is a useful rose to plant in a group at the front of a border, it has small semi double creamy white flowers in dense sprays, which continue to bloom during summer and autumn.
Weeping standards need to be pruned to encourage the graceful weeping effect which gives such a spectacular display.
Cut the oldest branches out at the top of the plant, leaving the remaining young growth to trail to the ground. Trim these at ground level. If these roses are pruned in the same manner as a standard rose the beautiful weeping effect is lost and you simply have a tall standard rose.
Those old favourites Albertine and New Dawn along with the beautiful Leonardo da Vinci are available at the nursery in 8ft standards.
Old fashioned roses should only have some of the oldest branches cut back at ground level to encourage the young canes.
Two old roses worth considering are Pearl D’Or and Felicia
Banksia roses should be pruned after flowering in spring, if pruned in winter the flowering wood is removed and fewer flowers are the result.
Climbing roses should have old branches removed at ground level and remaining branches tied down.
Two well loved roses available as climbers are Blackboy and Peace,
Once flowering climbing roses, are best trimmed after flowering to encourage next seasons flowers.
July is a wonderful month for bare root planting. Consider a hedge of Syringa (Lilac) or Malus (Crabapple) if you have an area where you want summer shade and winter sun, and you have the added bonus of a glorious spring display of flowers and fragrance. Malus Golden Hornet is a striking small tree which has pink spring flowers and golden fruit, another of the crabs is Malus Ioensis Plena (Bechtels Crabapple) a great display of spring flower and autumn colour.
For glorious autumn colour the Canadian Maple (Autumn Blaze) and the Red Maple (October Glory) are unsurpassed.
Weeping standards such as Prunus Persica the double crimson weeping peach , the weeping mulberry, Morus Alba Pendula and the weeping elm Ulmus Glabra Pendula are just a few of the beautiful specimen trees we have here at the nursery. As a feature tree in a courtyard, lawn or garden these graceful trees are a delight.
Once again enjoy the rain and the sun,
Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery.
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