The first month of Autumn has been hot and very dry so it is important to keep mulching to conserve moisture and prevent plants becoming stressed.
New plantings, pot plants and hanging baskets will benefit from water storing crystals at planting time and to help to keep roots damp between waterings.
The easing of water restrictions has made gardening a little easier this year and I think most of us have realised that the huge amounts of water we once thought necessary for successful gardening no longer hold true. More sustainable plantings and practices enable us to continue to enjoy our gardens without guilt. 
Water storing crystals absorb water and swell to form a reservoir for plants, they re -expand with each watering and last for a long time in the soil.
Soil wetter granules have a different function, they work by helping water to penetrate soil and reduce wasteful runoff.
 
The application of a layer of organic mulch has a similar action, while having the added advantage of adding humus to the soil.
The use of soil wetters can be beneficial when applied to bare soils before application of a layer of mulch. It is important to remember that nature  abhors a vacuum and will attempt to cover bare soil with weeds if we neglect to mulch.
 The importance of organic matter in the soil and its function in soil chemistry and the water holding capacity of the soil can not be overstated.

For those who missed it the February newsletter contained some discussion of soil, how to recognize your soil type and how to correct soil problems.
Following on this theme next month we will be addressing the subject of compost and the various techniques and methods used to make this valuable soil conditioner and fertilizer.

For those of our readers who live within the Barwon Water region talk to us about the Barwon Water WATERSECURE program. This program is available to Barwon Water customers only and provides a subsidised garden assessment costing forty dollars.
A trained horticulturist will visit your property to:

For more information and to organise an assessment contact: Meredith Nursery Ph:52861397

  Now is the time to prepare soil for bare root plantings of roses, fruit trees and other ornamentals. A little time spent now will ensure the best possible start for your new plantings and ensure vigorous growth in Spring.
Take a walk around your garden and observe any bare spots or plantings which have not been successful, now is an excellent time to plan changes to the garden and prepare for new plantings.
 Be ruthless with non performing plants, choose something better suited to the position, availability of water, or your climate, we are always happy to offer suggestions or discuss this with you.
If you are interested in more autumn colour now is the time to look around your neighbourhood for the colours which appeal to you. Get your orders in early to avoid disappointment.

 The 2008 Bare rooted and tubestock catalogues are available for down load HERE.

  In the ornamental garden divide daffodils and jonquils which have been in the same spot for some time and they will flower well in Spring.
Plant bulbs no less than three times as deep as the bulb is wide.
Fuchsias which are looking weary and a bit woody after Summer should be pruned now. A light trim will ensure a display of flowers in May.
Sweet peas can be sown from March onwards, add 1-2 cups of lime per sqm to acid soils, plus compost and manure. Apply a liquid fertilizer fortnightly.
Plant Ageratum, alyssum, aquilegia, cineraria, cornflower, foxglove, delphinium, hollyhock, lobelia, pansy, polyanthus, poppy, primula, stock and wallflower.
Roses benefit now from a cupful of a complete fertilizer, take time to read the N:P:K ratio on the packet and choose the one which is higher in potash (K) content.
Top up with mulch or manure, water deeply and enjoy the autumn roses.
If you have roses which are particularly susceptible to fungal disease give each bush a dessertspoon of sulphate of potash in autumn, this thickens the cell walls of the plant, promotes stronger stems and increases resistance to disease.
Now is the time to prune the winter flowering roses “Lorraine Lee” and “Nancy Haywood”.
Deadhead any roses which have finished their second flush and many will continue to flower into June.
A short video showing how to dead head roses is available HERE

We have had some queries about climbing roses which flower only on the top of the canes. These roses bloom to their greatest potential when their canes are horizontal and a fence, or similar support, is necessary so they can be tied in a fan shape.
All the lateral growths which come off the main canes are the bloom bearing laterals and should be retained, simply trim them back to the third or fourth bud when pruning in winter. More detail to come on roses in the May newsletter.

Hibiscus are looking wonderful at the moment, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis “Double Johnsonii” is a medium sized evergreen shrub with glossy dark     green leaves, flowers are double, apricot coloured with a red centre.
 Hibiscus rosa sinensis “Isobel Beard” has striking pinky lavender blooms with a red centre, they give a wonderful tropical air to the garden.
Lavenders and daisies can be given a light prune now to promote new growth and flowers.
Pelargoniums and geraniums should be cut back now; this allows them to make good growth before the cold weather arrives.
Sedum “Autumn Joy” is a blaze of colour in gardens at the moment as the pinkish-red flowers gradually become a darker red.
If you have a lack of colour in your garden at this time of the year consider the crepe myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica, they are looking beautiful in many gardens at the moment and come in a range of attractive shades as well as white.
 
Agapanthus should have spent flower heads removed now to prevent them setting seed and becoming environmental weeds.

For those who would like a more sustainable substitute there are many tufting plants and native grasses which add year round interest to the garden.
Patersonia or the native iris is a pretty little clumper with an attractive three petalled purple flower; they do prefer some summer watering.
Flax-lilies (Dianella spp.) are tough plants which form attractive clumps and have beautiful blue flowers in spring, followed by purple berries.
A close relative of the grass tree (Xanthorrhoea sp.) the Mat- rushes are happy in a dry or wet situation, they vary in size from less than 10cm to a metre in height, are ideal for steep banks, mass plantings, pots or borders.

If you are looking for and unusual feature tree the Dawn Redwood “Metasequoia glyptostroboides”  is a fast growing, tall, pyramidal tree with soft pale green foliage that turns a spectacular russet brown in autumn. It prefers a moist well drained soil rich in organic matter. Mulch well to conserve moisture.

In the home orchard be scrupulous about the removal of spoiled and fallen fruit.
Codling moth (Cydia pomonella) is a serious pest which affects apples, quinces and pears.  It occurs throughout southern Australia and is very difficult to control.
The larva is cream coloured and has a brown head. The female moth lives for two weeks and lays small white eggs on the leaves of the tree. Eggs take between five days to two weeks to hatch and enter the apple at the blossom end.
 When fully grown the caterpillars tunnel out of the fruit and spin cocoons in crevices in the bark or around the base of the tree. The life cycle is complete in about sixty days so it is possible to have several generations within the same year.
Fruit which falls should be destroyed by burning, if this is not possible, place the fruit in sealed plastic bags and dispose of in garbage. Heat and fermentation should kill the larvae.
Inspect the bark and any crevices on the tree and dispose of any grubs you find.
Wrap strips of Hessian or corrugated cardboard around the trunks of trees to catch larvae as they make their way down the tree trunk in spring and summer.
 
Grease bands applied to the trunks of apples pears and quince helps to trap the females which crawl up the trunk to lay eggs. Inspect and destroy the wingless moths.
Fowls which are allowed to free range in the home orchard will control many of the caterpillars and prevent damage.
Ensure that mulches do not touch the base of your trees and shrubs as this can be an entry point for disease.
Keep strawberries moist and renew mulch, next year’s flower buds are forming now.
Feed lemon trees with a citrus fertilizer, water well before and after fertilizing.
Get in early when ordering new season stock, new or popular varieties are often in great demand. Download Catalogue

In the home vegetable patch plant tree onions, shallots and garlic.
Divide and replant clumps of chives and garlic chives.
Keep a close watch on brassicas for caterpillars; check the undersides of leaves particularly if you have white butterflies in the garden.
Water plants with liquid fertilizer every two weeks to keep them growing strongly.
Plant beetroot, broad beans, endive, silver beet, brown and white onions, spinach, turnips, lettuce, cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage.
It is not too late to plant another sowing of carrots and peas, keep them growing strongly before the weather becomes cold.
Bare patches of ground in the vegetable patch can be sown with green manure to be dug in early in the spring.

  In the native garden trim kangaroo paws which have finished flowering to encourage new growth and stronger flowers. Cut everything off at ground level leaving only about 5cm of foliage, apply some slow release fertilizer for native plants, water deeply and they will reward you with a beautiful display in spring.
Bracteantha bracteata is a golden flowered everlasting daisy which enjoys a free draining soil in sun or part shade, trim the spent flower heads to encourage further flowers and this native daisy will produce year round colour in frost free conditions.
Leptospermum “Little Bun” is a small dense mounding shrub to 45cm high and 1m wide with soft lemon scented foliage.
 A profusion of lime-cream flowers covers the foliage in late spring and summer. It is excellent for insect foraging birds such as scrub wrens. Grows easily on most sites.
Leptospermum “Kiwi” is another hardy, low growing shrub to 50cm high and 1m wide. Reddish-pink flowers are borne in spring against burgundy-purple foliage which ages to dark green, it tolerates most soil conditions and makes an ideal low hedge.
Correa "Win’s Wonder" is a small to medium shrub with attractive green and gold foliage. A form of Correa “mannii” it has deep pinky red flowers in winter and early spring. Growth is to 1.5m high and1.2m wide and it tolerates extended dry conditions.
Soft grey foliage with a silvery variegation is a feature of Westringia “Smokie” which flowers for most of the year.
An excellent screen or hedge plant,it can also be used for topiary and looks terrific in Mediterranean style gardens with lavenders and rosemary.

For spectacular flowers it is difficult to surpass Grevillea “Robyn Gordon”, a small to medium shrub to 2m tall and 3m wide with bright green new leaves. Leaves are divided, about 20cm long and fernlike and it flowers for most of the year.


Enjoy the milder temperatures which are coming our way, get out in the garden and enjoy the colours of autumn, the crisp mornings and a new gardening year.
Happy gardening

Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery.