Autumn is a great time to be out in the garden, the mornings are crisp, temperatures are mild and it is a wonderful time to get into the garden, do some weeding, rake up leaves for the compost bin or plan some changes in your garden.
It is raining as I write, what a wonderful sound it is and how quickly the garden responds. Our resident frogs are croaking happily and enjoying the moisture.
Plant evergreens now and they will settle in before winter and make good growth in spring.
 If you have not already done so site and soil preparation needs to be attended to urgently before all those enticing bareroot ornamentals, fruits, vines and roses appear next month. 
What a lot of promise there is in those bare twigs and what a lot of pleasure for gardeners to watch those green tips unfurling, or that new rose in bud.
Deciduous trees, shrubs and vines are putting on a magnificent display this year and many gardens are a blaze of colour, from deepest scarlet to pale gold.

Now is an excellent time to choose your colours for next autumn and to get your order in to avoid disappointment, bare root season will be in full swing in a few short weeks.
 
In the vegetable patch keep brassicas growing strongly with fortnightly applications of liquid manure.
Lettuce should also be kept growing quickly to ensure crisp crunchy heads and prevent bitterness. Succession sowing will provide a continuous supply for winter salads.
If you haven’t already done so plant some green manure in any beds which are not in use.
We have small bags of seed which contain a mixture of plants most suitable for green manure.
This will supply huge amounts of organic matter when dug into your soil in late winter or early spring, encouraging the beneficial  microbial activity so necessary for healthy soil and healthy plants.
Try it, it really does work!
Broad beans should be planted now if you haven’t done so yet and  they should make good growth before winter.
They are an excellent soil improver and the addition of some lime or dolomite is helpful in acid soils.
Silver beet and spinach should also go in now, and will produce greens for winter meals when the garden is somewhat sparse.
Silver beet is tolerant of salty soils, can be harvested for at least a year and has a pleasant earthy flavour.
Beetroot which is native to the seashore and belongs to the same species as silverbeet is also tolerant of salty soils. It likes a rich soil with some dolomite or lime if soil is acid.
Spinach has deep green leaves and prefers shorter days and cooler weather to prevent it bolting to seed, it appreciates some lime or dolomite where soil is acid.
It can be harvested as early as eight weeks after sowing.
Climbing beans which have finished fruiting should be clipped at ground level, as they  have nitrogen attached to their roots. The tops can be composted.
Continue to plant cabbage, spring onion, beetroot, broccoli, onion, lettuce, snowpea, garden peas and herbs such as dill, fennel, rosemary, thyme, sage and oregano.

In the ornamental garden continue to plant pansies, violas, cineraria forget me not, primula, lobelia, wallflower, calendula, snapdragons, erigeron, English daisy and alyssum.
Trim old, untidy leaves on hellabores to ensure the best display of these beautiful flowers in the winter garden. Early jonquils are beginning to send forth shoots and daphne is beginning to form buds, violets are starting to bloom and late roses are beautiful.
Many of the salvias are putting on a great display at the moment, there are so many of these beautiful hardy plants to choose from and the colour range is superb.
Salvia “Marine Blue” has deep blue flower spires and grey-green foliage.
It tolerates both drought and frost and maintains compact growth if pruned after flowering.
For camellia lovers we have the popular new Australian bred camellia hybrid “Sweet Jane” which has a strong upright dense habit, pretty rose pink buds, open white blooms blushed with soft pastel pink,
Perfect for containers, as a focal point in the garden and makes a stunning hedge.
Agapanthus “Black Pantha” is a striking plant with deep blue flowers, looks wonderful among pinks and greens and is sterile, which prevents it from escaping into the natural environment.
 Looks wonderful amongst pinks and greens and a perfect foil for old roses.
For winter colour in the garden Erica Pink Hybrid and Erica Linton’s Red are difficult to surpass. Evergreen to 1m they are covered in tall flower spikes in winter through to spring. They are ideal as a cut flower in the home. Ericas resent root disturbance so care is needed when digging around them.

Planting Bare Root Roses.
Although roses can now be purchased and planted all year round bareroot season is still the optimum time to obtain a wider range of roses and more time to prepare for planting
When you obtain your bushes it is a good idea to soak them for up to 24 hours in a bucket of water to prevent drying out.
Trim any broken roots or stems with sharp secateaurs.
If you cannot plant them immediately it is a good idea to heel them into the garden at about a 45 degree angle and cover the roots with soil.
Dig a hole in the prepared bed large enough to accommodate the spread roots of your plant.
Ensure your site has good drainage as roses will not tolerate waterlogged soils.
Build up beds if necessary.
Add some decomposed organic matter such as compost to the soil if you have not already done so. This will improve the texture of your soil and the openings between the  soil particles are able to hold the water, air and nutrients essential for healthy plant growth. The bacteria and fungi in the organic matter process the nutrients and make them available to the roots of plants.
Spread the roots over a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole.
Fill the hole with soil, tamp down gently to eliminate air pockets.
Plant at the same level in the soil at which they were previously growing, this will be indicated by the colour change on the stem.
Water thoroughly.
 
In the native garden we have some beautiful newcomers, Banksia spinulosa “Honeypots” is a low growing evergreen shrub which has nectar rich flowers from late summer to spring which are bird attracting. To 1.2m high and 1.2m wide it prefers well drained soils in full sun or part shade.
Some grafted natives include the stunning Pimelea physodes, the Qualup bell, with pink buds on grey-green foliage which open to reveal a delicate green bell flower and gold tipped stamens.
Eremophila “Blue Velvet” is a grafted plant whose silver grey foliage is a perfect foil for the deep blue flowers, and for hedging or blending colour in the garden Maireana “Silver Shadow” is a very adaptable plant with soft silver foliage all year round.
Those who love the pincushion hakea, Hakea laurina will enjoy the dwarf form of this beautiful native. Hakea “Mini Pini” grows into a rounded shrub to 1m and is covered in globular pincushion-like flowers of red and cream. Great for containers, low hedges and borders.
Leptospermum laevigatum “Cranbourne Form”, Flamingo, has unusual new foliage, green leaves bordered with pink which are quite delicate and pretty, although the plant itself is quite hardy.
For tubs or garden in full sun to part shade, the beautifully named “Didgery Sticks”  Baloskion pallens is perfect for that difficult spot in the garden.
To 1m high it is a frost tolerant plant which will withstand prolonged periods of waterlogging.
The older stem segments turn from green to an attractive scarlet red and it has small reddish brown terminal flowers in spring.

The popular West Australian flowering gum, now known as Corymbia ficifolia, is available in a grafted dwarf form “Baby Orange”, with stunning bright orange flowers and pinky-red stems against bright green leaves, this is really a gem.

  Orchard and Deciduous Trees

 Deciduous trees will soon be in the nursery and we are happy to discuss you particular needs with you.
Trees like all plants have varying needs for particular soil types, conditions and climate.  There are many variations in height  and canopy form, round, conical, columnar or fastigiate (upright,) or weeping.

 Selecting your Tree.
Make your choice based on soil, aspect and climate
Variations in height, canopy size, shape of trunk
Shape, texture and colour of autumn leaves
Flowers and fruit
Speed of growth
Reason for choice… specimen tree, group, shelter, avenue or woodland.

Planting your Tree

Ensure your site is well drained
Dig in some well rotted compost several weeks prior to planting
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the fully spread roots.
Fork over the soil in the bottom of the hole
Hammer in a strong stake
An alternative to a single stake is two use two or even three stakes about 15cm from the tree trunk. This is useful on windy sites. Use separate ties to secure the stem to the stakes.
Position the tree at the same depth as the dark soil mark on the stem
Backfill with soil and gently shake to settle soil
Firm the first layer and repeat process
Fix ties 15cm above soil and again near the top of the stake.
Water well, then cover soil around tree with mulch

If you are planning on planting fruit trees, a new garden, a rose garden or deciduous plantings, bare root season is only 2-3 weeks away.
We are happy to take orders and discuss your needs with you.
If you would like to download either bare rooted and/or tubestock catalogues please click here and select as you please.

Enjoy the rain, the sun and the clear, crisp, mornings and evenings
Happy Gardening

Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery

Growing Small Fruits

Strawberries.
Strawberries like a fertile soil which has had plenty of organic matter added, moisture and good drainage are essential as their root system is quite small.
Sensitive to frost they are easily protected by a layer of straw during winter.
Weeds can be a problem so prepare your bed carefully and mulch to prevent weeds and to keep fruit clean. Pine needles are an excellent mulch for strawberries.
Strawberries are prone to viruses which build up over time so it is best to replace your plants every three years with certified virus free plants
Home grown strawberries which are allowed to ripen on the bush are sweet and delicious and packed with Vitamin C.
Birds appreciate strawberries as much as we do so some protection is necessary.
Try strawberries sprinkled with a little balsamic vinegar and caster sugar. Delicious!

Bush Berries

Gooseberries.
Gooseberries grow on small bushes which are frost tolerant and quite happy in areas where they receive only morning sun, not as popular as they once were, they are still an excellent berry for those who enjoy making home preserves and jams.
Unripe berries are best for preserving, however if you wish to eat them fresh wait until they develop colour or they will be quite sour.

Blueberries.
Expensive to buy, these delicious berries are excellent in the home food garden, turn beautiful shades of red and orange in autumn and have delicate white or pink flowers in spring. High in antioxidents and vitamin C, blueberries are now regarded as one of the so-called “super foods” and they are well worth a little effort to supply their needs.
Blueberries enjoy an acid soil which must be well drained, constantly moist and have high levels of organic matter.
 Mulch with an acidifying mulch such as  semi rotted pine needles or oak leaves.
Blueberries enjoy a sunny spot with shelter from hot winds, they make excellent tub specimens planted into a potting mix suitable for their relatives the rhododendrens.
Pick when the berry is completely blue as they do not continue to ripen once picked.
Do not allow your bushes to fruit for the first two years, once established the stems will fruit for up to four years when they can be cut out at ground level and new stems encouraged.  

Cane Berries.

A delicate fruit which needs to be picked at perfect ripeness to be fully appreciated.
These berries bring a premium price on the supermarket shelves however as they are picked firm for transportation they do not have the delicacy and sweetness of home grown berries.

Cane berries grow best in temperate to cool areas, and require well drained acid soil into which plenty of organic matter has been incorporated. Eradicate any perennial weeds as it will be almost impossible to remove them once your berries have been planted.
Mulching is essential to retain moisture in the soil and prevent reinfestation with weeds.
Plant berries about 30cm apart and prune the young canes back to about 20cm high.
All cane berries fruit on 2 year old canes with the exception of autumn fruiting raspberries.
Canes must be trained on a trellis and the best method is two to three wires at about 50-70 cm intervals which are stretched between two sturdy posts.
Birds can be a problem when growing cane fruits and it is best to net the trellis when your berries start to ripen.

Raspberries

Pruning can be done in summer or winter, simply remove the two year old canes which have fruited and bundle the new canes together in groups of three and tie them to the trellis.
For autumn fruiting raspberries prune out the canes which have fruited and tie the new canes as for other raspberries. Fruit will form on the tips of the new canes, cut back just below the fruit after the autumn harvest and you have the basis for next year’s crop.
Blackberries have become such a problem in many rural areas that we would never suggest planting them, however there are various blackberry and raspberry hybrids which it is quite safe to plant and which provide delicious berries.

Boysenberry
A vigorous hybrid with purplish fruit which is sweet and juicy. Fruit is harvested in December-January.

Youngberry
Quite similar to the Boysenberry, however berries are smaller and shinier and are often sweeter.
Harvest is about two weeks earlier than the boysenberry.

Loganberry
Thornless canes, and berries which turn deep purplish red when ripe.
Allow to ripen on the vine to develop the rich flavour and sweetness.
The loganberry makes excellent jam and can be harvested from November-January.

Silvanberry
As the name suggests this is a Victorian berry that fruits over a long period.
A good berry for those who require a longer fruiting period.
The harvest is December-February.
 
Marionberry
A delicate berry which is not as vigorous as the Boysonberry but is considered to be
superior in flavour.
The harvest is in December-January.
 
Currants.
Red, White and Black currants are old fashioned fruits which are enjoying a 
resurgence in popularity. They have a tart flavour, but sweeten when ripe, making them perfect for sauce or mixing with some of the berry fruits in desserts where they contribute rich colours and flavours. High in pectin they make excellent jellies and jams.
Red and white currants are actually the same plant, the white currant is somewhat sweeter but lacks the levels of antioxidants which are found in red currants.
Black currants have high levels of antioxidants, however their flavour improved if they are cooked with sugar and they make delicious jams and jellies.
Currants enjoy fertile well drained soil rich in organic matter with a side dressing of blood and bone and some extra potash.
They will produce well in areas which have only morning sun and flower and fruit before the heat of summer arrives.
Mulch well to conserve moisture and some irrigation during summer will help to keep them productive.
Red and white currants produce fruit on stems which are two to three years old.
Remove the old four year old stems each year in late winter.
Black currants fruit on young wood of one to two years old so prune out any wood older than two years.

Jostaberries
Pronounced “Yostaberry”, this fruit is a cross between a blackcurrant and a gooseberry, they are resistant to mildew, free of spines and need little pruning.
Bushes grow to around 1.5 to 2m tall and nedd about 2m between them
The large juicy fruit are ripe December-January and intermediate in size between a blackcurrant and a gooseberry.
Plant in rich well drained soil in a site protected from strong winds.
They are frost tolerant and can be planted in full sun.
Mulch well and include well rotted compost, fertilize in spring with blood and bone and keep moist during the hottest months.
They can be eaten fresh or added to fruit salad, used in desserts, and make excellent jam.They are high in vitamin C and can be frozen like most berries for out of season use.

Passionfruit
Passionfruit Big Boppa is a new passionfruit which bears very large, sweet, golden fruit on a hardy vigorous vine. A sunny position in moist well drained soil and a good quality fertilizer high in potassium will give great results.
 Mulch well to conserve moisture.
 Perfect for a fence , trellis or pergola.

 Prepare for fruit plantings as soon as possible, dig in  plenty of well decomposed organic matter and build up soil if drainage is a problem.